Almost the start!

Location:

Deadhorse

We have arrived in Deadhorse. It took is 8 hours from Coldfoot to do the 240 miles here - not surprising there was so much dirt and mud. After the first 50 miles we look like dirt devils. The whole back of the bike is caked in mud, thick and dripping.

We have lots of caribou to contend with - there are plenty of babies about who don't know the dangers of the road and give us a hard time. Plenty of muskox too. We even got to see a grizzley with two cubs across the road!

The Atigun Pass was cold and dirty, but with amazing vies over the valley which is turning gold with the autumn.

Everything is still set with 18 August start date, provided those heavy skies do not dump any snow!

The next stage

Location:

Anchorage

We leave Anchorage today. We have a last tyre change at the BMW dealership, The Cycle Shop for a new set of Continental tyres.

There are high winds this morning, which will make for a difficult ride out. The ride to Fairbanks runs past Denali National Park and by Mount McKinley - although we don't hold out any hope of seeing it, with all the thick mists that encircle to tops of the lower mountains here from Anchorage.

From Fairbanks, we ride to Coldfoot, a small camp inside the Artic Circle about 270 miles north and then the final 230 miles to Deadhorse in Prudhoe Bay. Here we have three nights to focus before starting at the gates to the oil fields in Deadhorse. Communication will be limited in this section, as it is so remote and phone lines are often down.

Sweat Lodge

Location:

Anchorage

We arrived here in Anchorage two days ago on the day that Anchorage set a new record for their highest temperature here - coincidentally the weather was breaking records in the UK too!

It was not to last - as we made our way to meet David, who had offered to conduct an ancient Indian sweat lodge ceremony that evening, the weather became cold, rainy and very windy. David is a native American Indian and performed the traditional ceremony for us to help us and give us strength and focus, as we were about to embark on a big journey.

Enclosed within the tiny lodge made of willow and skins, ten of us sat in a circle around the fire pit, waiting for the cermemony to start, as large lava rocks heated on a open fire were pushed into the middle and started to give off great heat. Although traditionally it was done naked, were did wear minimal clothing.

As the heat increasing the door is closed and we began the four stages of sweating. It was an intensely spiritual experience, where we all offered prayers and traditional songs, and within the heat and the darkness, allowed us to prepare our thoughts and focus for the coming challenge.

It represented a new stage in our preparation for the world record, as it marked the last steps of the countdown and the start of new roads for us to travel up to the north.

The Stewart-Cassiar Highway

Location:

Bell 2

From Prince George it has been another 500 mile ride to push deep into British Colunbia on the Stewart-Cassiar Highway. It is an awesome road running through the ice fields and into the wilderness.

One of biggest dangers riding here is getting so mesmerised by the dramatic scenery, that you forget about the wildlife. Every so often, a deer, moose and even bears appear from nowhere and remind you that a small lapse of concentration could be the end of the ride. We have had two black bears cross the road in front of the bike so far, one moving bloody quick and only a couple of metres away fom Julia who was off the bike taking a photo (in the wrong direction!)

Whilst we are here, we treat ourselves to a side visit to Hyder in Alaska, something that is not possible once the clock is ticking, and visit Fish Creek to see the grizzlies feeding on the spawning salmon.

So far the weather has been good, albeit now 1,000 miles north of Vancouver, it is much cooler and very fresh. It means that the gravel that we encounter so far has been dry and compact and we can ride it at speed, albeit leaving a huge dust trail behind us! The other good thing is that the metal grid bridges are not ice rinks as you cross them, though they still leave the bike twitching.

500 miles north

Location:

Prince George

Kevin had woke at 3am, still adjusting to the time and spent the early hours pacing the room. We set off from Vancouver early morning around 7am, after a nightmare packing the bike. We had brought across with us a lot of kit which somehow no longer nicely found its place on the bike. I was forced to dump various items of clothing (from an already meagre supply), and other bits such as travel wash, extra stuff stacs.

Heading out of Vancouver. Kev was pleased to be on the bike and riding. On the race track, you get your warm-up lap; this next two weeks was ours - it's just that it is 2,500 miles long!

We were distracted from the fantastic scenic roads as we could not quite get straight on the bike. You get those days when things don't quite fall into place. I felt wedged into a space that makes economy airline seating look like a positive luxury and Kevin was shifting around on his seat pushing back into me to get more space, when I had no room to spare. We would have to sort this out soon, as a 500 mile day is one thing when you're not quite comfy, but double the mileage and it becomes untenable.

We arrive at Prince George late afternoon and drop straight into the Yamaha dealer to see Chris, who has sorted out a set of tyres for our return leg down. This is to be our first tyre change when we are on the record. He knows that it has to be turned around quick. We check the tyres which are already waiting for us. Chris and the guys will be Guinness witnesses and this spot will also be our start point for incorporateing an Iron Butt Saddlesore 2000 to Tucson.

The Bike!

Location:	Vancouver Air Cargo
Mileage:	0!

When we get to the agent, Swissport, the lady at recpetion grins and says "oh yes, the bike, it's here". Its too early for relief as we need to get it through Customs and check it over. We head off to the Customs House, where we happen to have a Customs Officer who comes originally from England. So we chat about Blighty, she stamps our carnet and we are out of there in minutes and forty six dollars lighter (they checked the bike out for bugs the evening before and we paid for the pleasure!).

Back at the cargo depot, it's another bunch of stamps and then the bike is wheeled out. It all seems in order, we connect up the battery and the bike fires up first time.

We are out on the open road in no time, fill the tank up for a cheap 35p per litre (cheap for England!) and take the bike out for a spin around Vancouver, along the Marine Drive and end up at the John Valk BMW dealer. John sorts us out for a few bits and oil (thanks!).

All we need to do is to sort out bike packing and then start the 2,500 mile ride north to get to our start point!

Arriving in North America

Location:	Vancouver
Mileage:	0!

We are jet lagged but have arrived in Vancouver on schedule. The only thing we need to find out is if the bike has got here too. It is 6.30 in the evening and we have to wait until the next morning before we can phone the freight agent , Swissport.

It's a hot and humid night, more reminiscent of Singapore than Canada. After a rack of ribs and cold beer, we catch some zeds and try to adjust to the eight hours difference.

We are up at five the next morning; we ring the agent at eight. They sound a little vague as to whether the bike has arrived. So we pack our documents and do the couple of mile trek back to the airport to find out in person!